Tranoï show reveals labels exhibiting at next womenswear session

Translated by

Nicola Mira

The womenswear edition of Parisian trade show Tranoï, dedicated to directional, original emerging designers, will be staged again at Palais Brongniart with 170 exhibiting labels. A key fashion event among those staged in the French capitalParis Fashion Week

In Palais Brongniart’s gilded halls, Tranoï will showcase contemporary womenswear labels from all over the world – Tranoï / Boris Ovini

Boris Ovini, photographer and co-founder of Exhibition Magazine – a fashion and art magazine published twice a year – has lensed the visuals for Tranoï’s womenswear session, with an evanescent touch. “For this season, we wanted the gilding and columns of the Palais de la Bourse to morph into an immersive tunnel, becoming an exhibition of fashion photos taken by the staff of the magazine as it celebrates its 20th anniversary,” said Boris Provost

The contemporary women’s ready-to-wear and accessories labels exhibiting at the show will present their Fall/Winter 2023-24 collections to international buyers across an exhibition area of nearly 1,000 square metres, within a “very bright setting in yellow and ochre hues.”

80% of exhibitors are international labels

For this spring session, and the following ones too, Tranoï will shine a spotlight on emerging Chinese designers by partnering with the China Fashion Association

In September 2022, Tranoï entered into a partnership with the Canex (Creative Africa Nexus) programme of the African Import-Export Bank (Afreximbank), and the show will highlight the latest African fashion codes in the upcoming session, with 18 labels distributed in two halls on the building’s first floor.

Among the exhibitors at Tranoï, the eponymous label by Ivorian designer Lafalaise Dion, inspired by the traditional dancer outfits of her native Dan people; and the label by South African designer Rich Mnisi, whose androgynous silhouettes enhanced by shimmering prints are a tribute to his VaTsonga origins.

With his androgynous creations, South African designer and Tranoï exhibitor Rich Mnisi is paying tribute to his VaTsonga origins – Rich Mnisi

Eight Peruvian labels, Ana G, Ascendia, Ayni, Perluchi, Fringe, Pampa, Kero Design and Kinua, will exhibit at Tranoï’s next session. As the ambassadors of a contemporary, sophisticated Peruvian style, they blend a millennial artisanal heritage with textiles renowned worldwide for their quality, such as Pima cotton and alpaca wool.

The majority, 80%, of the exhibitors at Tranoï’s upcoming session will come from outside France, a 20% increase over the average of recent editions. This is also the result of partnerships with Seoul Fashion Week and the Portugal Fashion organisation, and thanks to the presence of 15 labels from Japan, marking “a genuine return of Japanese fashion with knitwear, accessories and denim,” said Provost.

Bold, edgy French labels

Among the French exhibitors, Mama Serie, the label by designers Marine Miel and Margot Aurignac, has resorted to artisans specialised in knitwear and tailoring to create a plush collection based on merino wool knitwear, complemented by colourful accessories, such as hand-painted stoneware plates and raw-silk lamps with lozenge-shaped lampshades.

Talel is instead a contemporary luxury label of high-end accessories and leather goods with a penchant for geometric patterns, founded in 2019. Paris-based Apothicaire Studio specialises in minimalist, unisex looks featuring blazers and trousers made with up-cycled fabrics sourced from luxury labels.

French designer Lola Mossino, winner of the Hermès Fashion Accessories Prize with Indra Eudaric at the last Hyères International Festival, will exhibit at Tranoï her exceptional jewellery collection called ‘Mécanique de la Pétasse’. Featuring handcuff-inspired bracelets and a breast-shaped necklace enhanced with iridescent pearls, these provocative ornamental jewels hint towards nudity and a rebellious attitude.

“Thanks to the presence of highly creative, high-quality labels well-suited to wholesale distribution, and with early-bird visitor registrations up 50% compared to last September’s edition, we are expecting a very buoyant business climate,” said Provost.